Kaloi Limenes, meaning “Good Harbors” or “Fair Havens,” is a coastal settlement located in the Heraklion regional unit of Crete, Greece. Situated 77 kilometers southwest of Heraklion, it is part of the Pigaidakia Community within the Municipality of Phaistos.
Geography and Features
Kaloi Limenes boasts a natural harbor near the southernmost point of Crete. The village is in proximity to the village of Lentas (ancient Levin) and the unexcavated remains of Lassea, which served as a port for the ancient settlement of Gortys. The area surrounding Kaloi Limenes is characterized by its rugged beauty, with the Asterousia Mountains rising in the backdrop.
A small islet named “Apostolos Pavlos” (Apostle Paul), or Mikronisi (Small Island) lies opposite the harbor, equipped with facilities for refueling seagoing vessels. Another islet, situated a few hundred meters southwest of the first, is known as “Megalo Nisi” (Big Island) or “Bobiano Nisi”. On a nearby hill stands a church dedicated to Apostle Paul, built in 1911 by Chatzis Kostis Karterakis, a native of Pompia. Interestingly, a church is depicted in the same location on Venetian maps from 1700. Next to the church, there is a small cave where, according to tradition, Apostle Paul stayed.
The beaches in the vicinity of Kaloi Limenes are known by various names: Makria Ammos (or Armirikia, Dendra, or Sissamolakos), Psili Ammos, Karavovrysi, and Stena. The area also offers easy access by sea to Agiofarago, Martsalo, and Trachili near Cape Lithinon.
Historical Significance
The name “Kaloi Limenes” has ancient roots, appearing in the Acts of the Apostles (27:8). It is believed that Apostle Paul landed here on his journey from Caesarea to Rome as a prisoner of the Romans. During the Venetian era, Kaloi Limenes was known for smuggling activities conducted by various foreign ships, as documented by Francesco Basilicata. The English traveler Spratt, who visited Kaloi Limenes in 1865, noted that the area, including the natural harbor, belonged to the Holy Monastery of Odigitria, located a few kilometers north of the bay. The abbot of the monastery was obligated to maintain a guard post in the bay, staffed by monastery personnel, and to inform the local authorities of any ship movements.
East of the present settlement, in the Chryssostomos area, lie the ruins of the ancient city of Lasaia. This city flourished during Roman times and served as the port of Gortys. Lasaia is mentioned on Roman coins as Thalassa and is also referred to as Alasa and Lasos in other sources.
Modern History and Commercial Development
The modern history and landscape of Kaloi Limenes were significantly shaped by the Vardinogiannis family’s business endeavors beginning in the 1960s. In 1961, the family founded the company SEKA (Fuel Supply Station) and acquired a large tract of 4,400 stremmata in the area. This land purchase was controversial, as the property belonged to the nearby Monastery of Odigitria and was acquired from shepherds who were merely tenants. The case was closed after the monastery’s official land registry book mysteriously disappeared, making it impossible to prove the monastery’s ownership.
The company’s strategic plan involved leveraging the harbor’s prime location, just seven miles from international waters, to create a major refueling station for ships. To this end, the company purchased the small islet known locally as “Mikronisi” at the entrance of the bay for a low price. Initial operations began with two tankers used as floating storage. After a storm destroyed one of the tankers in 1965, the company constructed permanent, land-based fuel and water tanks on Mikronisi, fundamentally altering the islet’s landscape.
Expansion and Local Impact
The company’s ambitions soon extended beyond the islet to the coastal settlement of Kaloi Limenes itself, which at the time consisted of a few shacks and modest homes inhabited by poor fishermen. The family sought to acquire the entire area for both private residences and corporate infrastructure. A process of acquisition began, wherein some residents sold their properties for minimal sums, after which their homes were promptly demolished.
Many residents, however, refused to sell and faced significant pressure, including legal battles and accusations of building code violations. Leveraging its financial and legal resources, the company pursued lawsuits against those who resisted. Over time, these tactics were largely successful, and by the fall of the Greek junta in 1974, the company had established dominance over the region. In the years that followed, the family built a villa and a hotel in the area. Tensions with the remaining local population persisted for decades, with reports from as late as 1996 indicating that residents and visitors were sometimes prevented from accessing the main beach for “security reasons” when members of the family were in residence
Village Key Points
- Historical References: The name Kaloi Limenes appears in the Acts of the Apostles and is associated with Apostle Paul’s journey.
- Location: Kaloi Limenes is located in the Heraklion regional unit, southern Crete, Greece, 77 kilometers southwest of Heraklion city.
- Historical Significance: Kaloi Limenes holds historical significance due to its association with Apostle Paul and the ancient city of Lasaia.
- Population data over the years: Specific population data for Kaloi Limenes is not readily available in the provided text.
- Current Status: Kaloi Limenes is a coastal settlement known for its natural harbor and its role as a major bunkering spot for ships in the southern Mediterranean.
Kaloi Limenes, with its historical connections, scenic beauty, and strategic location, continues to attract visitors and serve as an important maritime hub in the region.
